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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 02:07 - 03 Jan 2021 Post subject: Any 3D print gurus? |
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I have a Prusa i3 (Mk1) clone that I've just dusted off. It seems to be a RAMPS 1.4 driver board on an Arduino Mega. The firmware was version 1.0 of Marlin which nothing seemed to want to talk to. I've spent the entire evening getting Marlin 2.07 running on it and then teaching it left/right/up/down/etc.
Surprisingly it still prints stuff but I think the PLA filament has gone funny. Needs a lot more tweaking & calibration before I can get it to print consistently though.
Anyhoo, assuming I can get it back in working order I'm wondering what to do with it I have a big reel of ABS but no working heatbed (although there is a PCB kicking around here somewhere.) I'm wondering if I should get it to the point I can print me a new printer ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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bladerunner |
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bladerunner World Chat Champion
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Ayrton |
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Ayrton World Chat Champion
Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 13:43 - 03 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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I'd get a heated bed first. If you can get a 110v one as it heats up so much faster, but you do need to add a relay.
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-to-110V/
It's worth seeing how well it prints and then upgrading the bits you want. I have a mk1 clone with an acrylic frame and upgraded it with as E3D hotend, extruded aluminium AM8 frame, bed level sensor and other bits. I dont think there's much of the original left They dont print too badly as standard really, but little upgrades like a auto bed level sensor makes printing so much easier. |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 14:41 - 03 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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Ayrton wrote: | I'd get a heated bed first. If you can get a 110v one as it heats up so much faster, but you do need to add a relay.
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-to-110V/
It's worth seeing how well it prints and then upgrading the bits you want. I have a mk1 clone with an acrylic frame and upgraded it with as E3D hotend, extruded aluminium AM8 frame, bed level sensor and other bits. I dont think there's much of the original left They dont print too badly as standard really, but little upgrades like a auto bed level sensor makes printing so much easier. |
What I have is a bare 12v RepRap Mk2a PCB heated bed and an XBox 12V 18A PSU. No components, no wiring, no thermistor. Do you think I should get the knick-knacks to get these bits working or just bin it and go straight for something contemporary?
Here's a plan: get it to print ABS consistently and then I can print any Prusa i3 MK3(S+) parts I like, salvage steppers, rods and gears from this build and make a "current" printer. Does that sound doable?
The main Z-axis frame I have seems to be laser-cut steel... it's fecking heavy! I'm hoping I can re-use that. How about the RAMPS/Atmega/Marlin controller combo? Would that be up to the task of handling the levelling mumbo jumbo and all the other new techniques? ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Ayrton |
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Ayrton World Chat Champion
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Posted: 18:58 - 03 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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Easy-X wrote: | Ayrton wrote: | I'd get a heated bed first. If you can get a 110v one as it heats up so much faster, but you do need to add a relay.
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-to-110V/
It's worth seeing how well it prints and then upgrading the bits you want. I have a mk1 clone with an acrylic frame and upgraded it with as E3D hotend, extruded aluminium AM8 frame, bed level sensor and other bits. I dont think there's much of the original left They dont print too badly as standard really, but little upgrades like a auto bed level sensor makes printing so much easier. |
What I have is a bare 12v RepRap Mk2a PCB heated bed and an XBox 12V 18A PSU. No components, no wiring, no thermistor. Do you think I should get the knick-knacks to get these bits working or just bin it and go straight for something contemporary?
Here's a plan: get it to print ABS consistently and then I can print any Prusa i3 MK3(S+) parts I like, salvage steppers, rods and gears from this build and make a "current" printer. Does that sound doable?
The main Z-axis frame I have seems to be laser-cut steel... it's fecking heavy! I'm hoping I can re-use that. How about the RAMPS/Atmega/Marlin controller combo? Would that be up to the task of handling the levelling mumbo jumbo and all the other new techniques? |
May as well get a new one if you dont have any cables, the 12v PCB boards are cheap enough now with everything included.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anet-3D-Printer-Kit-Hot-Bed-Base-Plate-Heating-Platform-Heatbed-Aluminum-Plate/402585972417?hash=item5dbbfe6ec1:g:PKoAAOSwzJFf5uvc
You could also go for a 220v like I suggested but you then need a relay and I think they are a little harder to find in the UK
Printing stuff to upgrade to one of the more modern designs is a good idea. I bought one of these extruded aluminium frame kits which was a huge improvement over the acrylic frame and I think a better solution than what Prusa do with the sheet metal frame.
https://hobby-store.co.uk/frame-kits/full-bear-upgrade-prusa-i3-mk3-printer-frame.html
I'd skip straight to printing with PLA, it's much easier to work with I find. Bed leveling really is a pain in the ass so you should really mod in a auto leveling sensor. I think it was only about £5 for the sensor and you just have to print some kind of mount for it. Also check how flat your bed is because mine was quite uneven and impossible to level by hand. Not really a huge issue when you have auto leveling though.
I always found glue sticks work the best for adhesion along with a brim in your print settings to help stop it lifting on corners. Not having a heated bed is probably making things worse. |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 20:37 - 03 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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Yeah, I've pretty much given up on it in the stock configuration. All the prints lift off a few layers in and all the extreme edges have lift off distortion from material shrinkage.
I did manage to level the bed pretty well by hand though. Initial prints were a complete mess but now they're quite neat - the first few layers anyway. Even tried the old PLA and that was fine.
On that: it might be just some old crud in the extruder. I've tried running the ABS and some good PLA samples through and everything seems much better now. Maybe the higher temp ABS did it some good
I have the 12V PCB, I have the high wattage PSU so I've ordered up a thermistor and some wire and will get the heat bed working and try again. Once I can churn out reasonable PLA & ABS I can think about upgrade parts like the levelling sensor. (Bonus brackets galore on thingiverse!)
Something like this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trianglelab-3D-TOUCH-sensor-Auto-BED-Leveling-Sensor-for-anet-A8-tevo-repr-T-ZT/363068858120 ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 11:46 - 04 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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I had another play with the printer last night, experimenting with top-hatting to see if it made any odds... no basically Anyhoo I can see this being a bit of a "turn an old Golf into a GTI rally car" thing - parts are cheap, you can upgrade bit by bit.
Took apart the XBox PSU I have: 3 pairs of chunky wires for +12V and at ~16A absolutely ideal for a 3D printer. It also has a tiny pair of 12V wires that should do nicely to drive the external fans which were previously just wired directly into the 12V/5A feed. Just waiting on some more ferrules and then I can wire it up. ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Ayrton |
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Ayrton World Chat Champion
Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 16:33 - 04 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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I've not got any experience with those kind of sensors but I think they work ok. I've got an inductive sensor on mine, but it can only be used on a metal bed, which pissed me off a few days ago when I tried to add a new flexible magnetic bed.
This guy has a good comparison video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 19:11 - 04 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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BTW I've discovered I have a Prusa i3 Hephestos which should make my life a bit easier with regards to getting it set up correctly
<addendum> Ah, looking at the specs it's a solid aluminium frame I must say the RepRap site is a fantastic resource! I've turned up the original Marlin config files... which means I wasted hours unnecessarily tweaking the code by hand ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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blurredman |
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blurredman World Chat Champion
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Posted: 10:26 - 05 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d0/Infinity_%281990%29.jpg ____________________ CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k. |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 21:08 - 10 Jan 2021 Post subject: |
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Got my first print done, Calicat:
https://i.imgur.com/Sjp9FfL.jpg?2
Crucial to get it to print: bed levelling plus glue stick and the heatbed @ 60 degrees ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 3 years, 133 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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