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my 2 stroke virginity

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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 03:23 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: my 2 stroke virginity Reply with quote

ok, so ive bought myself an RXS100, its a 2 stroke project!

ive only ever fanny'd around with 4 strokes...

it hasnt been run in 7 years apparantly, and was running perfect with tax and MOT before it was left in a garage.

now, with a 4 stroke it was just 'dab oil in cylinder, wait, crank over slowly'
is it the same sort of thing for a 2t? i was just wondering because of the fact that there is no oil pump or engine oil i would need to do something about that.

can anyone give any advice?

cheers queers xxx
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The very best thing you could do is rebuild the engine with plenty of good quality two stroke oil. Any oil left in the engine would have congealed by now I would have thought.

If you are lazy, then I'd try putting a relatively high concentration of pre mix in there, then I'd gently kick it over a few times (read a lot) without starting it up.

I assume when you say there is no oil pump it runs on pre mix? I'd have thought it would be injection pump. If thats the case then you can do a similar thing, but you need to be more careful, because you can't richen the oil mixture.

Also I would reccomend siphoning or draining any 2t oil that is in the oil injector tank or draining any premix left in the fuel tank. Replace it with something like Castrol TTS or whatever its called these days, something that is a good make and is fully synthetic. Rock oil and Silkolene do good 2t oils too.

If it kicks over with ease (it should) then it isn't seized. But as I said, be careful as you could damage the bore if it has cold seized over time. If it won't kick over (gently) then its probably best to have the head off and replace the piston and rings, and check the bore for marks. If the bore is OK then changing the piston and rings will make the bike (hopefully) work well.

The only reason why this won't work is if you've got something nasty happening in the bottom end, which will mean a full engine rebuild anyway.

Changing the piston and rings on a bike like that is childs play.

{edit} Oh yeah, I'd probably replace the gearbox oil too, before you start! {edit}
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure it will have an oil pump. As I recall, the RXS is crankcase induction so the oil pump and carb will be under the right hand side panel.

I'm rather more slap-dash with this kind of thing. First off I'd stick some pre-mixed fuel/oil (maybe 10-20ml or so) down the sparkplug hole, kick it over a few times and leave it to soak.

Next I'd whip the carb off for a strip and clean. If it's been sat for that long, it'll almost certainly be full of baked-on brown crud. I've found the best way to remove this is to soak the parts in acetone (nail varnish remover) for five minutes then drop them into boiling water for about 20 seconds. The crud should now wipe off using more acetone on a rag/cotton bud. ACETONE DISSOLVES RUBBER AND PLASTIC!

I'd ditch anything in the petrol tank, swill it out with fresh fuel and clean out the fuel filter. May be worth fitting a small inline fuel filter too.

Check the air filter hasn't disintegrated and there are no mouse nests in the airbox.

Drain the 2-stroke tank and refill with fresh stuff.

Put the carb back on and bung some 2-stroke premix in (I usually use 50:1). Assuming the oil pump is working, this means it'll be overoiling for a bit but there will be very little lurking about anyway. If it isn't working, it'll save your engine.

Make sure it has a spark.

Make sure there is at least some oil in the gearbox.

Now give it a whirl. Don't kick it too hard, just press down on the lever hard enough to spin the engine over. If it won't start after maybe six kicks, it'll be flooded (you should be able to feel this through the kickstart). Switch the fuel and choke off, open the throttle wide and kick it over maybe ten times or so. Woot. Lots of blue smoke, Ring, ding, ding, ding. etc.

Bet it starts third kick though. If you've done all the above and it hasn't started, have a look at the plug because it should be well and truly soaked and oiled by then. Clean it and try again.

Now stop and give it a proper service. Replace gearbox oil, new plug etc.. Check the oil pump is working by disconnecting it from the carb with the engine idling. Put your finger over the bit on the carb to stop it drawing air in and watch for drips of oil coming out of the hose. At idle you should get about 3 per minute.

They are really simple engines. If it has compression and a spark, you should be able to get it running today.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
The very best thing you could do is rebuild the engine with plenty of good quality two stroke oil. Any oil left in the engine would have congealed by now I would have thought.


here is a thought , what would happen is you ran a two stroke completely on 2 stroke oil ? (ok comparative to petrol its expensive) but would engines seize as often?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:

here is a thought , what would happen is you ran a two stroke completely on 2 stroke oil ? (ok comparative to petrol its expensive) but would engines seize as often?


I can garauntee it would never seize Wink

I know a guy who was running his bike on BBQ lighter fluid with cooking oil in place of 2-stroke. Ran ok if a little more slowly. BBQ lighter fluid was working out at 45p per litre at the time. He's also run it on 50:50 meths and petrol. Admittedly he has an SU carb fitted so he can vary the jet diameter to suit his fuel of choice.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Next I'd whip the carb off for a strip and clean.


I agree. I didn't really think to mention that because matsprattUK said he was fairly au fait with 4ts so I took it as read that he would clean the carb. But in hindsight I probably should have mentioned it! Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is pre-mix (which I don't actually think it is) the degree of yak in the carb after seven years will be far in excess of anything you'd get in a 4-stroke.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah. if it has points ignition, give the surface of the points a clean up with some emery paper of a fine file. They tend to get coated in a thin layer of something (don't know what) that doesn't conduct electricity very well.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Hijack]
I have my bike sat in back yard. I took carb and air filter off for abut 3 days and it rained but I forgot to put them back on.

I have put 2 stroke down the spark plug hole and kicked it over a couple of times without starting as I was worried about the barrel being 'rusty' from water that may have slipped through the reed valve things.

Have I done right, will it run fine and how can I check if water has penetrated the bottom end?

Thanks.
[/hijack]
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

it isnt a pre-mix, its got a 2t reservoir, but ill use your premix tip, thats a good thing to do.

by oil pump i mean like a 4 stroke oil pump, 4t has a sump with oil in it that gets pumped to all the parts of the engine, a 2 stroke uses the oil in the fuel to lubricate it right? i was just wondering if its been sat for so long, is there any way to lubricate these parts? or should it be just fine?

cheers for the replies, genuinely helpful! Thumbs Up keep em coming Very Happy

cheers queers xxx
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Er... Maybe just drain the gearbox oil and put some new in? Don't have a clue if that helps . Laughing
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

so gearbox oil.... is that just 2t oil? or is it bought as gearbox oil? ive just never seen any.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
it isnt a pre-mix, its got a 2t reservoir, but ill use your premix tip, thats a good thing to do.

by oil pump i mean like a 4 stroke oil pump, 4t has a sump with oil in it that gets pumped to all the parts of the engine, a 2 stroke uses the oil in the fuel to lubricate it right? i was just wondering if its been sat for so long, is there any way to lubricate these parts? or should it be just fine?

cheers for the replies, genuinely helpful! Thumbs Up keep em coming Very Happy

cheers queers xxx


There is a mechanical oil pump (I think it's a piston pump in this case). It pumps 2-stroke oil into the inlet manifold so it gets sucked in with the fuel. The flow from the pump is increased and decreased by moving a lever on the pump controled by the throttle position.

The throttle cable splits into two, one branch goes to the carb, the other branch goes to the oil pump. You should be able to see the lever on the pump move as you open and close the throttle.

Just in case you didn't know, the fuel-oil-air mixture on 2-strokes gets sucked in UNDERNEATH the piston as it makes its way up. The oil in the mixture lubricates the mian bearing, big ends and small ends as it swirls about in there. As the piston comes down, the mixture is squeezed through transfer ports cut alongside the barrel and lands up on top of the piston wheren it gets burned.

The initial (in my case) bunging pre-mix into the engine and kicking it over a few times or (in marjays case) kicking it over a lot with the ignition off is intended to get loats of oily fuel circulating round the important bits.

Here's an animated .gif showing how a 2-stroke works:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Twostroke.gif
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
so gearbox oil.... is that just 2t oil? or is it bought as gearbox oil? ive just never seen any.


It just lubricates the clutch and gearbox. Many of them just use ordinary motorcycle engine oil. Some of them use specific gearbox oil like EP90. You fill it like you would a normal bike, there will be a filler cap on the side of the engine with a dipstick on it.

It doesn't get nearly as hard a time as oil in a 4-stroke. The gearbox and clutch just sit in the oil and it gets splashed around. Unless a seal has gone, it doesn't get exposed to the extremes of heat and fuel residues that the oil in a 4-stroke does.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing to make sure of is that when you flush out the old 2t oil, you will need to bleed the oil pump as otherwise it won't work properly - there will be air bubbles in the pipes. There is a screw on the oil pump which you remove, then (with the ignition off) gently kick the engine over until you don't get any more bubbles coming out. Then put the screw back in.

The oil pump is located near your right foot on the engine - under the circular cover retained by 3 screws. To check the pump adjustment you need to look for the little black disc that the control cable is wrapped around. It should have a small dot on it which when the slack in the cable is taken up should line up with the little metal rod.

The gearbox oil is the same as any 4 stroke bike's gearbox oil - should be 10W/30 according to my haynes. I just use 15W/40 car engine oil and it seems to be OK.

RXS100s have CDI ignition so no worries about points.
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel...

youdaman Very Happy

and cheers for that chris! i was about to put some 2t in it!
so normal 4 stroke engine oil works for gearboxes?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any Gearbox oil will work in the gearbox, I got cheap stuff from Motosave and slapped it in.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
so normal 4 stroke engine oil works for gearboxes?


Yep, on most bikes. Some have odd requirements (such as using automatic transmission fluid), but most just use normal engine oil.

For the oil pump to ensure it is bled through just start the engine and hold the operating arm on the pump open fully (so the pump is flowing as though it was on full throttle).

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

st3v3 wrote:
[Hijack]
I have my bike sat in back yard. I took carb and air filter off for abut 3 days and it rained but I forgot to put them back on.

I have put 2 stroke down the spark plug hole and kicked it over a couple of times without starting as I was worried about the barrel being 'rusty' from water that may have slipped through the reed valve things.

Have I done right, will it run fine and how can I check if water has penetrated the bottom end?

Thanks.
[/hijack]


That would seem to be a logical thing to do. If it's been used anytime recently, it should be well coated in oil inside there anyway. If water has got in the top, it'll find its way into the bottom. You could always squirt a load of WD40 in there I suppose.

My mate bought an H100 for £100 that had spent three days totally underwater in a river and was then hauled out and left standing for three months. We flushed the silt out of the engine with loads of diesel followed by a flush with pre-mix. It fired up on the third kick and immediately settled down to a steady tickover.

In future, anytime you leave a hole open into your engine (ie plug out, exhaust off, carb off, barrell off) stuff a rag into the opening immediately. This stops you dropping anything into the engine. If it's going to be left off, cover the engine with a plastic bag.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:


For the oil pump to ensure it is bled through just start the engine and hold the operating arm on the pump open fully (so the pump is flowing as though it was on full throttle).


I'd watch that if I were you. I tried that one on the YB100. It was tricky to do because the operating arm went up and down as the pump did (turning the arm lengthened the stroke on the pump) and then the cable pinged off.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TeddyCanuck
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
st3v3 wrote:
[Hijack]
I have my bike sat in back yard. I took carb and air filter off for abut 3 days and it rained but I forgot to put them back on.

I have put 2 stroke down the spark plug hole and kicked it over a couple of times without starting as I was worried about the barrel being 'rusty' from water that may have slipped through the reed valve things.

Have I done right, will it run fine and how can I check if water has penetrated the bottom end?

Thanks.
[/hijack]


That would seem to be a logical thing to do. If it's been used anytime recently, it should be well coated in oil inside there anyway. If water has got in the top, it'll find its way into the bottom. You could always squirt a load of WD40 in there I suppose.

My mate bought an H100 for £100 that had spent three days totally underwater in a river and was then hauled out and left standing for three months. We flushed the silt out of the engine with loads of diesel followed by a flush with pre-mix. It fired up on the third kick and immediately settled down to a steady tickover.

In future, anytime you leave a hole open into your engine (ie plug out, exhaust off, carb off, barrell off) stuff a rag into the opening immediately. This stops you dropping anything into the engine. If it's going to be left off, cover the engine with a plastic bag.


Mud-wasps built a nest in the muffler of my CL350 last summer. I was thinking I'd blow rings on the left piston with all the smoke pouring out the 1 pipe. I put plugs in the ends of the pipes when my bikes are stored.
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i got the beast today, and my oh my is it a bit of a shitter!
the exhaust isnt blowing, but its very very rusted, maybe a new one is in order...
the battery i ripped out because its bound to be dead, bit of 2 stroke down the spark, kick over, check spark, there was a spark, put spark in, kick over some more, clean spark, re-try etc... so theres compression and a spark, just some sorting at the carb end needed.

do these bikes need a battery to run?

cheers queers xxx
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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NSR Mick
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Belive it or not the exhaust from an MBX 80 (I think might have been a kwak of some description.) will bolt straight onto a YB100. And I'm assuming the rxs angles are the same.

No idea where you would get a micron system for an mbx these days but it worked for me 15 years ago. Laughing
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 25 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

YB100 had a horizontal cylinder. MBX80 and the RXS100 have (close to) vertical cylinders. How did they fit?

All the best

Keith
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