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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 13:38 - 20 Jan 2018 Post subject: Royal Enfield Bullet 612cc project |
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Diggs |
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Diggs World Chat Champion
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Karma :
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Posted: 13:39 - 20 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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Looking forward to seeing how this one plays out... ____________________ Now - Speed Triple, old ratty GS550, GSXR750M
Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting... |
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arry |
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arry Super Spammer
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Lone-Wolf |
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Lone-Wolf World Chat Champion
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Howling Terror |
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Howling Terror Super Spammer
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pepperami Super Spammer
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Posted: 11:25 - 21 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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The usual request Mr Stinky: lots of pictures and explanations please ____________________ I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now! |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Howling Terror |
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Howling Terror Super Spammer
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struan80 |
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struan80 World Chat Champion
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stevo as b4 |
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stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 13:59 - 27 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 19:23 - 27 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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So a good brush over with paraffin then hot, soapy water, then compressed air and the timing chest cover is looking a lot cleaner. Many people would polish this, I'm not so keen on that, I quite like the dull patina you get when hot alloy gets oily.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ryx3VZInGZmEHgWkRrmJLPUzK_aLBTHRUYrMfzevkjJSnNEbwa_kM38bbO9eNWBddHNf4I4RgkZ5pWIgr_JkiWz9M2E6FLU10ViZM2tkqek1sFtOzo0wIVsIVWd3fIyX-UbWt0vesQ=w662-h882-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E-H8qMqmn7JvGcxCFGuWck7s4ZrMJ5f_tt67HjpEXcEmc9YbaJ6Y_sPZF7spwUHoFtLEFLRcYxS5hhdfjB-ABrjW1ywtgBEHZoU5kdPOFNn0t-L6ywzfmP4YuhievqqEOvvh9KXUZA=w1176-h882-no
More power means more stress and more heat. More oil is going to be a good thing. So a set of high flow oil pumps. The ones with the bronze discs are the high flow ones, shown next to the standard ones. Feed pumps on the left, Scavenge on the right. They pump 30% more oil than standard, I did have them on my 350 but they were pumping too much oil and swamping the rocker box so I took them out again.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DXd4V-hYa5cQurU5p8A57TfCyjYdgFi9YPHHdksbOmuJ0UDSqTL1cpN5TBaM2GB4bhgQaLlHf_3O1U_C2QSBj9jAmtEOzNr4HIknt-TTgdroXdLNeRYlTh9wAXC0gvsbOEiVIeS5-Q=w1176-h882-no
Thing is, the piston is a lot larger (doesn't look it on the pic above but it is). So much so that on many bikes, the piston will foul the casting. As is the case here.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P6h5--8WwwxuGPCGZIgpxhFJ4r7gfPD7MU_wY2WSAxgus8wl2IeDXdxFjgNSgqpaKetXQ3wNtAp47csI4PbzPqCczcpv4eIBKoQ4ARJaNXySFycsmDOcMzQ_YPKp0Bdybs41Dd8XtQ=w1176-h882-no
The high-tech solution is to burr away some of the alloy "points" until it will move properly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GxKNloyISy3_4Z_I9XoFjrg_l1qEliGNUBR7i56IvyVeaDtZwVQFUKlsQKY0mXj3_B0adps-PWzO1HOiBWGgyVAQJn5U70pL84jAnsmRyOrLZvckcKv2wQA4gcg844xXtYLFncLj3g=w1176-h882-no
The oil pumps rely on a perfect seal between the pump face and the alloy of the timing chest to work properly. To achieve this, you need to lap them in using fine grinding paste in much the same way as you would a valve. There's a special tool for this (effectively a stick with two pins poking out of it you rub between your palms like you would a valve stick). I don't have one but A set of circlip pliers seems to work ok.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WnzbRbFN6D6kksT9PEqHYilkzdbG6Ccf5w0zZFta6Aa13DTq5wATiEfeV7Z9GrZh8tMMEFlh8piysDs7VvplR0j_3oQAX7T4FGwW2o_R7EqngfdDfK8DsbMjPQeTzTf6qDDJxnE5jA=w1176-h882-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qMw9RkwcqaE7XN_fRGxtgh9vXdH_ular4mRjen98mGW1nA381dqmZmCYhhCg60nsR919SuaeQ2e1Qe0RNiTc5FEJKhWkw3HsWNNARLFp-aKW79locfMVKZ1U3FdFducyuCNyDV1pXg=w1176-h882-no
When it's done, you should have an even, grey, ground appearance to the alloy and a polished appearance to the pump surface. This is the scavenge side, you can see where I've burred away the alloy points so the pump piston fits.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C0jDRjUO3Aqaj99II8JyUjxnuoypTTiz9aINc4b_chqhkKXg0vlR-26tB4JU4uyy2a2KmTMF9lkuMfUpVUT7kpUQ4uIpaZslIDbOpDX5S6eTc60MnFSdGDvU4mwzGA6icaSfEZ6Ixw=w1176-h882-no
Then it's a further meticulous clean to make sure there are no traces of grinding paste residue in the oilways! Hot soapy water, hot water, flush through with solvent (paraffin) then compressed air then a blast of carb cleaner spray and more compressed air for luck.
I've realised it may not be entirely obvious how these oil pumps work. Here's a very short video of me turning the spindle with my thumb with the pump in place. As it rotates from one side to the other, a different pair of holes line up with the pump disc letting the piston suck oil out of one hole and pump it up the other.
https://youtu.be/N1pUe9oW93E ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 14:05 - 30 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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arry |
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arry Super Spammer
Joined: 03 Jan 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 14:17 - 30 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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Can you tune my Bullet for me please |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 01:05 - 31 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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The madness continues.
Locking the distributor shaft to undo the bolt by putting a folded rag between the distributor pinnion and idler gear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Ft5q8B664e7OP5FJWNt_Gssfxtqh7itIESjR6iL_6B4laUkZMy1Ln-ZFd6iR9lSKZPx8T8R65TbzgZHg2nUBo_L4nhKmP3kfdUu6HUxReGtw-CxKIeX7C9AAt1EzUD5HidRfVN5Hw=w1176-h882-no
Then the gear pulls off the tapered shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lNkUm49m1x7K18bM2gAtAOFcbD77htORtLlj3tH9b0fwTbngBwfFC1KRgtMUcJRNs02UngQyeatG-X77z8EUDp6EYftKSobXd90Tm3ZxYdhaPLH5eXC7_intSyN4EMp2CFI6XU6KnA=w1176-h882-no
The idler gears just pull out. In all probability, I won't be re-fitting these. The plan is to have a crank mounted ignition. The cam gears can be locked in a similar way to allow the worm drive nut on the end of the crank to be undone. This one is a reverse thread.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ub-asi1Zy2pfwdPGxlrYzlWg95BV11tSlcx26cgyEoAV1BXe87KFo3gIIMtrW8AFXHl1CMY8pILjR2gW_VHsFHn-aQCXEgyIgYzFw_DW9vPJClgWgpMUIs3uYeyQY7IwONHnE8s5Qg=w1176-h882-no
I will once again draw a veil over how I removed the timing pinnion without the correct pulling tool.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yIVLGlIBhSdF98ahmSmuo2GKg7YVinZbFkTlkwtCMAH-2YEaKtbEB2UTFGRhdXyGxLPHK_SC9KjG0yby0CXW-dx1UQtsQZ3KcQAmf2r_p49mnIatu7ByjAXOfnwK6xToE3LFJqltpw=w1176-h882-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yljJIzaIKmMxsTXqsv362RTTx_xPiCoxWnUxAOqJXhrOuoGUTNtg3IqDb4hAXHy4HPeQb9XsmMJ5erqebBVq9yZQxtQyLiABYAlOIxhl2IzkRmuQbBJWzILh2XM2oVl7VpnVLWQ2IA=w662-h882-no
The three bolts that hild the distributor casting on are tight, took a whack to loosen them then a HUGE screwdriver. Interestingly, this distributor has bearings instead of bushes. I'll keep hold of it for fitment to my 350 next time I'm fiddling with points.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p8DjH-U68R659WLyL2W5zzkAZxRqdHSPAnxVvJrKTF2kedoswhxlOnWK81Gv_yenbBJd9QT0rWnokKGltjjjXHHdc2qrApu6Uy_Apg4C_RiAMIKxCimSfD9DhEr-3pYnwwux4VPXNw=w1176-h882-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S0DI7V-o1bBf9-5jdX3NLqO1L3LamR87wbzEgfrogEPDAyCexQ_zMoNSuI_6kULG6kHZrYcMrNyO8djAKi-IgzAQsNptCQJXNy6MLu8Ww63R-wdDvy6kODmqe9xgu3RKt72cV6vubw=w1176-h882-no
Studs out. They're bent anyway, presumably from storage. I'm going to make some new ones slightly longer with a square on top so they can be unscrewed with the head in situ. The heads have a bad habit of sticking on, removing the studs lets you twist them off. I'm also going to do the same with the gerarbox studs which allows the engine to be fitted in the frame seperately to the gearbox.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f1oeAqKZVvKwMdtCdz89WljZGO3jlhh9Qt6MA10kcwP-BvSkAI5vcQ7jmOs-LBo-vMhLN3PYf5WpKci-9WVbuiC-MnLM3bmf5SJddhbX8i5hkWqhwIwcjwjs02-j_Op9zrsj3oyLMQ=w1176-h882-no
All the crankcase bolts undone.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CvapSwyrIg2rNCz0BSJsre6ktasxVgBhFx3pFIJ2Rp_w3QarR8po3rB_To2LLG7p45RCX01rYOr5K9NUcqbao8fFqsOnLq4ZCE9xtlihHk7IixonhGXr7i0-VK2ehpVXK3gjYTG1eA=w1176-h882-no
Some moderate whacking with a rubber mallet and it's split. Umm. yuk! That's not supposed to be like that. The pump pickup was blocked by bits of big end shell which stopped oil being drawn up. Rocker gear was all ok though. Must've started being noisy before it suffered terminal oil starvation. WIththis much oil in there, it may have conked out altogether.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_xm0Nxzz_b--Odxfx5pLQNlfi0IxHbv60_2hRjmeBPscmDbe5rCdvxHpqz8ogIybIoDJM4U9nmIgIhzvIXPm892aRPe-N_usGMnjYGNuZBAuQF3-cqfMdYuEIBNIR0Y60-Qt8a1rUw=w1176-h882-no
One thing I'm going to do while it's apart is sort out the crankcase breathing. The way it's set up, any crankcase pressure has to vent itself through a tiny hole in the crankcase wall then out through the oil tank. This is far from ideal and was effectively a bodge to get late models through emissions tests. I hadn't realised just HOW tiny that hole was either. It's about 4mm and has clearly been drilled freehand. I'm going to solder it up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mKsv2nZ9O_3DD7NngUdRQkrxcZKHk7muwROFdhM98mQ925yOAyx-aLIlQTmKOwMZkBxE99aaVfjGTaSlhqP4tAByR9YtfQagBPT3SUDWdmgneFos581axZImB_hb_h_AichJCN2McQ=w1176-h882-no
Under normal circumstances (so for the first 65 years they were making them), crankcase pressure escapes through a spigot cast into the left side of the crankcases just below the barrel. You can see a slot in the casting about an inch down from the top then a smaller slot inside that? That's where the crankcase breather should be.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3d32C8Y2idT7anaRdlCaC3N--rtJcHtQF9R1AqEFse6s4cx1ZjiMZNXzEt7zHISb7CWx1WnHxnpyrr3-o96oogJ9dC7iyrk5VYFwvHzDuNLMOOrfDWbSOvJvuiJBKybEIaIiVrSjcg=w1176-h882-no
In fact, the casting is all there, the spigot just hasn't been dressed and drilled through.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7riPxisKnPz5S04RsZnxsC0bGg1ktonV1LiDZ1yfEOOUe_ppb7vLFphQK7v5kh1MUlUmycuZEhS-g82G-Rxe0t_RCvrnkmBHiok1hdpQ0QjGIxNjLG-g7Azg4vvDZjXGv5Af9pf6dg=w1176-h882-no
Interestingly. The Redditch made bikes had a hose-tail casting bolted on here instead of a cast spiggot. You can even see the witness marks in the casting in the above picture showing how they've modified the original blanks (built up with clay/wax?) to add the spigot. I'm going to ask my engineering friend if there's enough alloy to face this bit off and retro-fit the cast hose tail.
Another interesting thing. I was going to have the crankcases drilled for dowels. They already are but have none fitted. I'm making enquiries as to why because it's like this from the factory. It may be straight laziness or it might be that they are so horifically badly made that dowels prevent the bearings lining up. If it's just the former, I'll fit some.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/knQfto2AeNNlUQazXq29HYCAa9aDA11YR9nF9Xw4F9Ciu1uZjVuxNJ-HR4VI2HV8zFaXjulD3mymogmBphKcyHm9xACSoTqcecokSGWNFHf-eR01Tdyz_WSvN0hn8cVK_IxwDTas5A=w1176-h882-no
Another mod I was looking at doing was enlarging the comparatively small hole between the timing chest and oil tank which the oil pumped to the top end returns through passively because I reckon with high flow pumps, it'll potentially overwhelm this return. Looks like someone else had a similar idea at the factory. A second, slightly larger hole, slightly further up has already been drilled to act as an overflow. I was going to slot the original one to maintain the "normal" oil levels in both compartments. You can see the "new type" crankcase breather stub in the oil tank at the top right of this picture.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0ZCsyok3Ou6w8BeH5Z_9MDzRYiWwdnHwHyy6vhV5blW0MJD4fKsmVSXdkoTrRKmuKKa27k7xl1M1JdQKLb471Ue2UgilNKwgcKX_E7edfZ1cpR1VW85id5XHndQuZSrTUMifN87qmw=w1176-h882-no
Lots of cleaning up to do!
Sexy bits were dispatched today. May arrive tomorrow! ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 20:22 - 31 Jan 2018 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 14:23 - 02 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 22:13 - 02 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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A thinking before do-ing session tonight.
I'd like to replace the nasty cast in breather stub with a bolt on one. It remains to be seen if there is sufficient alloy to do this. Still not ruled it out, the inside of the casting may need to be curved to match the crankcase and fitted with a thick card or nitrile gasket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qxFU3yPWjS7TFbV5ODfJ-lkx879KhG3f0QVlmajsysoJjd-2xw5KgMhM80I_IuTXVCEvr2kzR5FZXI_ihPbCfkm_3Sae4z9npJJ3BSF08p8CieznwcW9SFQKnmpP4VmdIjAlWJkOWg=w1176-h882-no
Standard exhaust cam on left, performance one on right.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yabBrN1ANvsIUI7MvnxbwVj39Uvpasb5MarNEZ9J1FWEbLb8fCHmNI2tHw4Szmgz5Piy6JzIwqjVRRkeyEPshh4QVuBqt_WKiwwl79Y1U4sSjsL5WiUXD-_dzRXZtNF2dvGyRQx_7g=w1176-h882-no
One thing is it needs at least 0.005" clearance between the follower and the cam sprocket. I have 0.007" so all gravy and no need to order shims.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7sx4EOAl9Y1O_-f5HcFvJBMGQaculCxSEi9_T0Qr6IfHHvmQkDqgoHrQb3Wg2WY3uoSAwVrvRp5heYjVBVzYjw2Em4p-lkp73rs6FXzNhR_Iq04uOArn524_kwguxHjpc49nxTXR1A=w1176-h882-no
Scary biscuits! The crankcase has to be machined away to accept the much larger cam. Pretty much right down to the crank seal.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k13EbI1a9gVnn5pW3Si346JrvKwTmYXUTfMrYF_JRKoH42GYQtdQYsFuXtk6hFDMjag5sOagh9z3kHqiiVFjgCuDDjgzf0-U9HdgEeSD_9RlVj86ob6W7N7BL99P7FcyYSLizxVsRQ=w1176-h882-no
I'd have thought they were mad but here's the picture from the suppliers guidance notes. They recommend doing this with a burr. The hell with that! My mate has a milling machine and the wherewithal to use it and the casing is out of the bike ready to be laid on a machine bed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ljrVUM2_VYfmAf9SNgDOJRtpJTEHqg5hOKpvNM1Dj_4aOwkK3GZSZLdC-sSsEeO4CVLw-mOH4z-920m_QZgn5EBUjogbtbSqmqRtCC_ErAZ8gst9n9yzU24DHjY5_YAn2tjN8oqPOA=w585-h456-no
Inlet cam. Opener for longer. But no need to modify the casting for this one. Cam sprocket clearance is also good at >0.006". I will also need to set the end float on these, that's something for assembly time though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QZPxs_H1d5wQXVspEqvhZiP8t4cY28wyIhHpstN2A7OCiqdYmJFbWNYckFqaWkiUnSabEOhoeTXMs1yH9Vt6XPsAQaq_ljMksAEFOvPsSmDTdCoNncMaYVPpowVdrGyq6sXJLScgOQ=w1176-h882-no
Just laying the new crank in to check there''s enough clearance round it. I've removed those studs as well because they're in the way and will be a pain when the bearings are being pressed in/out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GG5KuGRz5qjlZw2SoW81tBEe2BanwIo5_XdGnVKzk2yjTw5TPqUrU8d1zSbM13LcZ0mlGAgV79zje0nKsyKcH_sIUb-SOtzEpb_OyaNqU-HOgy9h7ZlnXmOPWkmj8Y3xmA5Sp4qNDQ=w1176-h882-no
Also noticed this. This is the inner race from one of the original Indian made main caged roller bearings! And people wonder why they're noisy and clattery?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oBPWsKXIltnQgekWZGxKYT6zwJIBA9oAkDy-REyNtT7GvQ6PapgE6wLiLg-nzH53MajQNqT4noGPRBsr-2gmrViaMsWg9TsoiZ4BcUQ-CiwfCjX0_DfzHtL5dCPN5C1ok2spIRoxww=w1176-h882-no
This highlights how worn the teeth on that original oil pump drive spindle were. I tried the new one in and it seems a good fit. Free to rotate with no slop. This is something I can assemble before the engine is done, I'll post pics as I do so, it's a critical point in the reliability of these engines and needs to be done right. I suspect I'm going to be lucky and will be able to throw it all together with minimum modification based on this.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WR0hrCot7uey8yKJ70mE4GiuYXiUrGGoy_Hv1pzk5fdGfdtAM00_7XHkKfY65R-TpiP289XmdDaEthgyHEMEUXVvvjcmqCsFpZ-LUF3tBj4QCbTJFJTVB1jZuDjk_DfgC_D8IoSctw=w1176-h882-no
The cylinder head nuts and rocker cover nuts were manky and rusty, been sat in a box for 4 years. I degreased them and put them in white vinegar (well, non-brewed condiment) 3 days ago. They look brand new. It's taken the yellow passivation off them too which means they weren't ACTUALLY yellow passivated, the metal was dyed yellow somehow to make it look lke it was.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FTSd47oSHuSpgCC6tFr7Kp4JhSIIl6E7yGIessI4qRw-LW4R60OBdPJE2RcZ7OJzEUZ6HCwhzriUiwsuzmBScKcW59sM_6oRFrDc5XhtJ5la3uOyV2B_JGWxvlgoMfc9gzdLFcMurg=w662-h882-no
I've got them soaking in relatively strong phosphoric acid solution now (sold as milkstone remover for dairy farms, it's used to remove calcium deposits from the milk tank) which should prevent flash rust and impart at least some corrosion protection. It's supposed to be near boiling conc. phosphoric acid to properly phosphate coat them but I'm not messing with that degree of risky chemistry in my garage. I nearly melted a hole down to the class below my school chemistry lab last time I tried that.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ek57qVFsSy83eZKl4VEWhzyE_bu41ErGTfnXTGpxHP4w7b-4-oZAganOLn19krnM1S_-GWEe8QsR7PR0OvvHxzEaEQ9nrOcidOTHZXCcaRaVydfqON6LF3vgITliQsqpVvRXCY699w=w1176-h882-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
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Posted: 22:48 - 02 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Is the fact that the end oil groove left out of the oilite bush deliberate? ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Howling Terror |
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Howling Terror Super Spammer
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 23:53 - 06 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Just dropped the crankcases in the the engineers for fitment of new bearings, opening out of breather and cutting of exhaust cam clearance.
As suspected, he has a better idea for the cam fitment than simply burring away the alloy. As shgown before, the exhaust can is VERY close to the crank seal.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k13EbI1a9gVnn5pW3Si346JrvKwTmYXUTfMrYF_JRKoH42GYQtdQYsFuXtk6hFDMjag5sOagh9z3kHqiiVFjgCuDDjgzf0-U9HdgEeSD_9RlVj86ob6W7N7BL99P7FcyYSLizxVsRQ=w1176-h882-no
And the manufacturers recommend burring away the alloy until it fits in this manner:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ljrVUM2_VYfmAf9SNgDOJRtpJTEHqg5hOKpvNM1Dj_4aOwkK3GZSZLdC-sSsEeO4CVLw-mOH4z-920m_QZgn5EBUjogbtbSqmqRtCC_ErAZ8gst9n9yzU24DHjY5_YAn2tjN8oqPOA=w585-h456-no
So. He reckons he can press out the cam spindle, get the casing centred on the bed of his boring bar and can tool it to undercut that seal seat to the exact diameter required for the cam to turn with clearance and without cutting into the seat itself. Thereby leaving the seal fully supported all the way round and the cam rotating under it as with the current design.
Pleased I asked him.
I've also picked up a whole load of EN8 steel stock to make new studs with. Turns out the rocker studs are a bit tricky. Two out of each four (diagonally opposite ones) have over-diameter shafts by about 0.4mm and act as locating pins so the rocker blocks are perfectly aligned.
This is an utter pain in the rear. I need to have a 1/4BSF thread cut on an apparently random shaft diameter. The standard ones are fine because 1/4" is a standard steel size. The closest standard size I can get is 7mm for the thick ones so I'll need to thin them down by 0.2mm then somehow get a 1/4BSF thread cut on each end. I have an idea for how...
I spent a fair bit of the other night tying myself in knots about what grade steel to use for these studs. Most of the problem being about comparing metric and imperial standards. I worked back from the specified tightening torque which is 10ft/lb. They have a tendancy to pull out of the alloyeven at this so I definately don't want to go higher.
On a 1/4BSF thread, 10ft/lb equates to standard torque for a Grade R bolt. Grade R (having converted from tons per sq inch) has a tensile strength of 690 to 850N/mm^2. I eventually found a chart showing EN8 rolled bar as having a tensile strength in the range of 6-800N/mm^2 so it should be perfect. EN8 also takes a die well.
The actual steel for the head studs, rocker studs and gearbox studs cost about £15 from the local steel stock holders in the end. I have a lot of threads to cut over the next few weeks! ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
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Posted: 00:10 - 07 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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You're saying that the 1/4BSF studs are also 6.8mm locating dowels?
That's 17/64" you can get silver steel in that diameter on eBay.
https://r.ebay.com/O874Wf ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 125 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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